Heating and Cooling

Check these first

• Check the networker display isn't blank — if blank, the power supply to the heater may not be switched on or connected correctly.
• Check the circuit breaker in your meter box hasn't tripped — reset it if so. If it keeps tripping, call us.
• Make sure the set temperature is higher than the current room temperature — the heater won't run if the room is already warm enough.
• Check that a programmed timer hasn't turned the heater off.
• Check the gas supply is on at the meter and at the appliance gas cock near the heater.

Try resetting

• If RESET appears beside Key 4, press it to restart the heater.
• If RESET isn't showing, press Fn then Key 1 to display the error and RESET option.
• If that doesn't help, turn the networker off, wait 2 minutes, then turn back on.
• Last resort: switch off the power point near the heater, wait 1 minute, then switch it back on.

Check airflow — the most common cause

• Make sure enough floor or ceiling vents are open — too many closed vents cause the heater to overheat and shut down.
• Check all register baffles are fully open and not blocked by furniture or rugs.
• Check the return air filter — a clogged filter is the most frequent cause of shutdown. Clean or replace it.
• Make sure nothing is blocking the return air grille in the wall or ceiling.

Check the flue

• Make sure the flue terminal is clear of leaves, debris, or bird nests.
• Ensure the air intake at the burner end of the heater is also clear.
• SP6 models: check the condensate tube for blockages.

Check gas supply

• Confirm gas is on at the meter and at the appliance gas cock near the heater.
• Check that other gas appliances (cooker, hot water) are working — if they're out too, the issue is with your gas supply, not the heater.
• LPG users: check the cylinders have gas and the cylinder valve is open.
• Contact your gas provider if you suspect a supply interruption in the street.

Reset the heater

• Press Key 4 (RESET) after confirming gas supply to attempt a restart.
• If the error keeps returning after reset and gas is confirmed on, a service call is required.

Check the mode

• Check Fan Only mode hasn't been selected (Key 1 on the networker) — in this mode the fan runs without heating.
• Confirm the networker is set to Heating mode.

Check airflow

• Make sure sufficient vents are open — too few can prevent the heater from firing.
• Clean the return air filter and grille.
• Check that ducting hasn't been crushed or collapsed — if so, contact us.

Likely cause

• Whistling is almost always caused by a dirty or blocked return air filter or grille — clean the filter and ensure the grille is unobstructed.
• If the noise persists after cleaning, ducting or a register may be partially blocked — contact us.

What to check

• If zoning is installed, check that the zone for that area is enabled on the networker.
• If no zoning is installed, this is likely an installation issue — contact us.

What this means

• The padlock means the networker has been locked using the PIN feature.
• To unlock: press Fn then Key 2, then enter your 4-digit PIN (factory default is 1111).
• If the PIN has been changed and you don't know it, contact us.

Check these first

• The unit has a 3-minute protection delay — it cannot restart within 3 minutes of being turned off. Wait and try again.
• Check the power supply and that the circuit breaker hasn't tripped.
• Check if a timer has turned the unit off — press power on the networker or remote to override.
• Confirm the networker is set to Cooling mode (not Heating or Fan Only).
• A flashing snowman symbol on the display is normal — it means the unit is in a short startup delay.

Check mode and settings

• Confirm the unit is in COOL mode — Fan Only circulates air without cooling.
• The set temperature must be lower than the current room temperature.
• On very hot days it may take time to bring the room down — this is normal.

Check for restrictions

• Nothing should be blocking the front of the indoor unit — move curtains, blinds, or furniture away.
• Clean the air filter — this should be done every 2 weeks during the cooling season.
• Make sure the outdoor unit's air inlet and outlet are not blocked.
• Close all doors and windows while running.
• Close blinds during periods of direct sun to reduce heat load.

Normal sounds — nothing to worry about

• Water flowing or hissing from the indoor unit — refrigerant moving through the system, completely normal.
• Low hiss at startup, shutdown, or during defrost — refrigerant stopping or changing direction, normal.
• Outdoor fan speed changes — the unit adjusts speed automatically to optimise performance.

Sounds that need attention

• Loud banging, grinding, or rattling — turn the unit off and call us.
• Any burning smell — turn the unit off immediately and call us.

Likely cause

• The unit may be absorbing odours from the environment (furniture, cooking, smoke) — common and not a fault.
• Check the air filter — if mouldy, clean or replace it.
• Burning smell: turn the unit off immediately and call us.

Check these first

• Check the power supply isolating switch is on — usually located near the unit on the roof or in the ceiling.
• Check the circuit breaker hasn't tripped — reset if so.
• If the Networker display shows the time and room temperature but not the word "COOLER", the unit has lost communication with the controller — a service call is required.
• Check a timer hasn't automatically turned the unit off.

Check ventilation — critical for evaporative cooling

• Evaporative cooling requires doors and/or windows to be open so hot air can escape — ensure you have sufficient openings.
• Works best on hot, dry days. On humid days, cooling effectiveness is naturally reduced.
• On humid days, try turning the pump off and running on fan only.

Check the unit itself

• Check the filter pads are clean and undamaged — old or deteriorated pads lose their ability to cool the air.
• Ensure the pump is running and water is being distributed evenly across the pads.
• Check the water supply is turned on and the tank is filling correctly.

This is often completely normal

• Advance & Promina series: water is periodically dumped (roughly every 20 pump cycles) to flush salts — this is the Running Refresh and is normal.
• AD series: a small continuous flow from the drain outlet is normal — this is the bleed off method for water quality control.
• Contour series: these use an AquaSave system and should not dump water — if water is coming out, contact us.

What to check

• Make sure vents are aimed across the room, not directed at the floor.
• Ensure enough doors and windows are open — trapped moisture causes condensation.
• On humid days, turn the pump off and run on fan only.

Likely cause

• New cooling pads can produce a mild smell while settling in — normal, will dissipate quickly as the pads are flushed.
• A persistent musty smell usually means the unit needs a service — pads and tank need cleaning.

What to check

• Most likely an installation issue — contact us in the first instance.
• Note: evaporative cooling cannot share ductwork with ducted gas heating. Each system needs its own dedicated ductwork.